Sunday, December 27, 2009

Loss of a Loved One


My cat Sammy passed away last night. He had been getting thinner for awhile and his kidey levels were only slightly above normal. He was 15. I had him on sub-q fluids daily (100cc) and injectible B complex (every 3 days). My vet had given him a small dose of dexamethasone five days ago because his breathing was ever so slightly hard (no fluids detected in lungs). He was very thin and seemed sore so I also had him on Cosequin and an appetite enhancer, as he was not eating well. I knew a week ago he was dying and wanted to keep him comfortable in the time he had left.


On Christmas day he seemed better, eating well and sleeping upstairs in the bay window. Yesterday morning he ate a bit and everything seemed as usual, other than his slow decline, which was expected. During the day I gave him his usual meds, but he refused to eat anything and I noticed his breathing was a bit harder than it had been. I tried syringe feeding him a little, which went well. Then I gave him his fluids and his pill. But, this time, instead of just relaxing out, he hid behind the sofa.

That made me nervous as his breathing looked a bit worse, so I tried to get him to come out. Instead he crawled behind the TV. I know he was trying to tell me to leave him alone, but I wanted him accessible in case he needed to go to the vet.

Every time I pulled him out I noticed his breathing got worse. I know he was stressed. So, I put him on my bed where he laid down, open mouth breathing. His gums were grey. I wanted to get him to the vet for oxygen but every time I moved him he got worse, so I left him alone. I knew he had only a few moments left.

After a bit he lifted his head, his breathing looked a bit better, so I went over and pet him. He tried to get up and looked like he wanted to head to the littler box, but he fell off the bed. I managed to catch him and he collapsed on the floor trying to breathe. I left him only to get my stethascope. He was gasping but there was nothing I could do. There is no feeling worse than watching a beloved pet die and knowing you can't do anything at all to help! I held his head in my hands, I listened to his heartbeat. But I had no way to get oxygen to him. And that's what he needed. The vet hospital was 10 minutes away... too far to do any good. He went limp in my hands but his heart still beat. He had passed out from lack of oxygen. After that he took only a few more gasps then went still. I listened with my stethascope, but there was no heartbeat. He was gone.

Now, I cannot even walk into my downstairs apartment without breaking down! I feel guilty, like I should have done more, like I should have done something earlier! The house is so empty without him. Moving on from such pain seems impossible. Losing a pet is losing a member of the family. And yesterday I lost a very dear family member! I will hold him in my heart forever.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Too terrible to watch!

We hear about it all the time. We know it is there, but do we really ever think about it? I mean REALLY think about it? What I am talking about is horse slaughter. Though slaughter houses for horses are now banned in the United States, this does not mean it doesn't happen. Horses are sneaked over boarders to slaughterhouses in Canada and South America. So, even though the brutal practice has been banned from this country, as long as there is a "taste" for horse meat, there will be horse slaughter.

What REALLY happened to that pony your daughter outgrew, that you sent off to a that "nice" auction house and sold to that "nice" man who told you he wanted the pony for his own daughter? What happened to that pretty Thoroughbred race horse you watched on TV who didn't win the race? Or the ex-lesson horse who is no longer needed?

With the economy as it is, more people today are selling horses.

But, what most people don't realize, or don't want to think about, is the fact that many horses sent to auction are bought up by meat companies. Unless you know for an absolute fact that the person buying your horse, particularly from auction, is really who they say they are, that they really do have good intentions for your animal, you would be wise not to trust their word. Please, if you care, know who you are selling your horses and ponies to!

For those of us who adore horses, who understand horses, the thought of killing a healthy equine that has many years of life left is appalling. To us, it's no worse than murdering a healthy human being in cold blood. We know how intelligent these animals are... We know how sensitive they are... We know the pain they feel, the dreams they have... We've seen them play. We've seen them hurt. We have seen them upset and we have seen them happy. Horses have been trusting humans with their very lives for thousands of years. They follow us through the pasture, or come when we call. They walk beside us, un-led, after a ride in the arena. We are their herd leaders, and they are our friends.

And then there's the slaughter itself. If you don't think it's bad enough that these majestic, gorgeous, trusting companions are killed for meat is bad enough, watch the video below! These magnificent horses follow these men trustingly into the cold cement room. If only they knew what was to come, they would fight and kick for their lives!  This video is extremely disturbing to watch! I wanted to scream... I did cry. I was absolutely horrified. But, how can we know what is really there if we don't pay attention? If even one horse is saved by the terrible truth embedded in this British video, then is it not worth it? The horse would certainly think so!

WARNING:   Very graphic footage Below.

For more horse issues, please see my other articles

Horse slaughter still exists

Click here to find out more!

Friday, December 11, 2009

Heimlich Manuever on cats

The other day I was watching my elder cat eat some kitty treats I had just handed him.  After having been ill and stopped eating only days before, I was thrilled his appetite was returning (it was determined he is in the beginning stages of kidney disease, so he is on a very special regime). He adored these treats, so much so that he gulped them down with barely a chew!

I started to worry that he might choke. Though he has really good teeth for a 15 year old cat,  he ate one of the nibbles so quickly that he gagged for a split second, startling me. The first thing I thought was "I would have to do the Heimlich on him if he choked.

Fortunately, that did not happen.  But I thought nonetheless, it would be good to write an article on doing the Heimlich on cats.

First, make sure your cat is really choking and not having difficulty breathing through some other ailment. If you are sure there is an object or piece of food stuck in your cat's throat (signs include panic, clawing at the mouth, trying to cough and difficulty breathing), gently open your cat's mouth if you can and look to see if you can spot the object.  If so, carefully reach in a couple fingers to remove it.

WARNING: There are small bones at the back of a cat's tongue that can be mistaken for chicken bones. Be sure what you are seeing is indeed the foreign object. If this does not work, go ahead with Kitty Heimlich following these guidelines:
  1. Grasp the cat around the waist so that the animal's rear is nearest to you, similar to a bear hug.
  2. Place a fist (one hand over the other) just under the ribs.
  3. Compress the abdomen several times (usually 3-5 times) with quick pushes.
  4. Check the mouth to see if the foreign object has been removed.
If you are not successful and Kitty is in great distress, take him to the nearest veterinary hospital ASAP! Even if you do remove the object, get your cat to a vet for a check-up to be sure no damage was done by the foreign object or the compressions to the chest.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Caring for Your Aging Cat

As your cat ages, certain psychological and physiological changes will occur. Cats over the age of 10 years should have yearly geriatric screenings, along with their inoculations.
As their bodies change, older cats may develop problems with their bowels that can cause constipation, diarrhea or incontinence. If any problems should occur, take your cat to the veterinarian immediately. Watch neutered male cats closely for signs of straining during urination, or having to "go" frequently yet not producing. This can be a sign of a bladder infection or, worse, crystals that form in the urethra and can cause a blockage. This can be deadly, so don't hesitate.

Hearing and eyesight may begin to fail in an older cat, so steps should be taken to ensure the cat's safety. Cats may lose their eyesight due to glaucoma or cataracts. Cats usually adjust quite well to blindness. There are precautions you must take, however. Sharp objects should be removed and access to high places should be secured or blocked off. Do not move things around; a blind cat will become familiar with the placement of things and may become confused if things are placed differently. Before touching or handling a blind cat, let your approach be known by speaking to the cat softly beforehand.

Older cats may also  lose their hearing, and you may notice a lack of normal responses because of this. Be sure to announce your approach to a hearing-impaired cat by touching the cat gently or letting the cat see you coming.

Signs of Old Age

As with humans, a cat’s body goes through physiological changes as she ages. Here are some things to watch for:
  • cloudy eyes
  • diminished hearing
  • graying fur
  • less luxuriant coat
  • flabby or diminishing muscle structure
  • senility
  • stiffness
  • arthritis
  • decreased activity
  • increased drinking andurination
As their metabolism slows, older cats become more susceptible to disease and are less able to regulate their body temperature. Therefore, it's important to keep your geriatric cat warmer. Older cats tend to have metabolism changes that may lead the cat to eat more or less than before. Often older cats, although their appetite may not change, will lose weight. This is normal, but it is important to watch for signs of excessive weight loss, which can indicate a medical problem. Your older cat may become thin if she does not get enough protein in her diet.

Ever wonder how old your cat really is? The old adage one year of a cat's life equls seven of a human's is inaccurate. Below is a generalization chart that compares a cat's age to a human's.

Cat's Age                                     Human's Age
6 months                                              10 years
8 months                                              13 years
1 year                                                   15 years
2 years                                                 24 years         
4 years                                                 32 years
6 years                                                 40 years
8 years                                                 48 years
10 years                                               56 years
12 years                                               64 years
14 years                                               72 years
16 years                                               80 years
18 years                                               88 years
20 years                                               96 years
21 years                                               100 years  

Monday, December 7, 2009

Make Your eBay Store Look Professional

If you have opened an eBay store recently, chances are your storefront is pretty bland. You probably wanted to get all set up and running as quickly as possible and start making sales. This is all well and good, but once you have some of your products in place and start to draw customers, you will want your store to have a more professional look and feel.

Think about it. When you go to any store, whether online or a brick and mortar store, you will develop a first impression. Often, this impression is invisible. In other words, you don't think about the color and design of the store, not unless it is something outlandish that catches your attention (which is not always a good business decision, as it can draw customers' eyes away from merchandise). You want your customers to focus on products while at the same time giving them an appropriate atmosphere in which to shop. This atmosphere will depend on your store, products and tastes.

The first thing to think about is color. Color creates certain moods. For instance, red is associated with anger or even sexual innuendo. Pink makes people think about girls and all things frilly. And so on and so forth. In the eBay store Casual Razzle Dazzle, for example, the owner chose muted browns to display a warm atmosphere. The store sells casual clothing as well as fancy jewelry, gifts and home products. Since a wide array of "feeling" is involved in the store ("from the casual to the dazzling"), focusing on a darker tone or a wilder tone would be inappropriate. Hence, the muted browns bring us somewhere in the middle, not distracting from the casual attire nor the fancier jewelry.

Once you have your color in place (you can set colors and templates by going into the "Manage My Store" page and choosing the link to Display Settings), it's time to think about design. If you can't afford to hire a professional designer, you can make some nice designs yourself using a Paint program such as Paint Shop Pro, a Photoshop-type design that is quite user-friendly, and can create beautiful multi-layered designs (such as the one on the Casual Razzle Dazzle home page). Your design doesn't have to be complex, but it should look professional. Search around at other stores, on eBay and off, that deal in similar products and look at their designs to get ideas. Don't copy them directly, but you can get a generalization and work from that. Not only your home page, but your individual product pages as well should have something promoting your brand (you might not yet have a brand in place, but as you grow your products and business, your brand is something you will want to think about). A graphic title is nice, as is some pictures of your products set to text and a short description of your business.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Get off his back already!

A short backed horse can be hard to fit a saddle to
A short backed horse can be hard to fit a saddle to
Photo by Christine Church
Recently, I have gone through a lot with my horse and his sore back. I read somewhere that there's a huge connection to sore backs, sore feet, and many other sore parts due to bad fitting saddles. Apparently, all the muscles are connected and move in correlation to one another in a sort-of circular pattern from front to back and around the top to front again. If any part of that "circle of muscles" is interrupted for any period of time, it can effect how the entire muscular structure works. This causes the horse to "compensate" in other areas, usually his back, hence eventually leading to a sore back.

I found all this so interesting that I decided--as I tend to do with new information--to research it until I couldn't learn anything new, then I came to my own conclusions. I researched and learned so much that I actually made my own custom-fit saddle pad for my horse to take pressure off the areas where it shouldn't be and put the weight only where it should be.

I could write an entire book on the subject, so I will try to summarize a bit here pertaining to some of the most important aspects of saddle fit and back pain that I learned as they pertain to my horse. You can tweak the information to fit your own horse or contact me if you have questions.

Okay, we know that all the muscles move in a sort-of circle and are connected, so it makes sense that if a saddle is pinching for any extended period of time (which can vary by horse, performance, discipline and saddle type) it will disrupt the flow and cause all kinds of problems (which can include lameness issues, believe it or not). A horse that holds his back very hollow, head up, not wanting to really move out, often does so because his back hurts, and most (not all) back pain problems are caused by poor saddle fit. This is just one example, but it's one of the things I noticed most about my horse. He simply doesn't like to bring his back up! He also has navicular changes (another area I have researched extensively), which can cause him to compensate for his sore feet, changing the rotation of muscles and leading to back problems.

Within the last 6 months to a year I have been putting all this together. The first thing I discovered was that the western saddle I had always thought fit my horse so well actually was pinching him in all the wrong places. So I sold it and went on a hunt for the "perfect" saddle. That's when I learned there's no such thing--unless you spend an obscene amount of money to have a saddle made to fit absolutely to your horse's shape and size (and even then, your horse will change shape as he ages and cause that expensive saddle to no longer be worth much). So, where does this lead us? Get a custom made saddle every few years?  I don't know about you, but I can't even afford one custom-made saddle, let alone one every few years or so.

This leads us to saddle pads. You will hear the manufacturers of saddle pads (particularly orthopedic  pads) say how their perfect (and usually very expensive) pads will solve all your horse's back fit issues. Then you will hear vets and others claim that no saddle pad can fix a saddle that doesn't fit. And then there's just about everything in between.

So, I took all this information and, much to my horse's chagrin, I started to experiment. I discovered where horses get sore the most and why. This varies from horse to horse, but in my horse's case he was most sore right behind the scapula (shoulder blades). He also had sore shoulders (hence the not wanting to "move out"). This was from the saddle sitting too low on his withers, pinching just behind the shoulder blades and resting on the top portion of his shoulders,  Add that to the navicular problems and it's no wonder the only time he prefers to move under saddle is when I am trying to get on him!

I went on the hunt for the "perfect fit" western saddle, or as close as I could get, but as it turns out my horse is extremely hard to fit. He has a very short back, average size withers, but big shoulders and high shoulder blades. His right shoulder is much larger than his left (no horse is symmetrical), leaving a big dip behind his right shoulder. Eventually, I just bought a saddle with a relatively good fit then went on a mission to create a pad that would actually make the saddle fit!

Knowing what I know about my horse's back pain and past problems, plus the way a horse should move naturally, I deduced that I would have to make a pad that allowed the saddle to completely clear the shoulders. Something like how a dressage saddle sits--behind the scapula. Most western saddles are not made that way... except some of your higher end saddles, which can have a narrower area under the horn (the inner gullet) that should sit behind the horse's shoulder blades, keeping the front part of the skirt off the shoulders. I personally did not have the budget for even a used saddle like this, so I had to go for one that fit moderately well and had the right bar size (the bar sizes are a whole other subject I won't get into here).

If you look at the tree without the leather on a western saddle, and are able to set a plain tree on a horse's back, you can really tell if it sits correctly or not.

By running your hand under your saddle, you should be able to feel the tree in there and get an idea of where it sits on the horse. That's why it's a good idea, unless you KNOW a particular saddle type will fit, you should always try a saddle out before buying. I was stupid, I bought my saddle at an Equine Affaire, but it was in my price range, is a gorgeous saddle, and had the right size tree. It also had lots of silver, would look great on my horse and had a skirt short enough for his short back.

It fit my horse well enough except, like all saddles seem to do on him, it pinched a bit at the shoulder area, especially his larger right shoulder. Pads only made the saddle tighter on his shoulder. Remember that--saddle pads only serve to make a tight fit tighter. Then, add the weight of a person and you can hopefully see where I am getting at.
Orthopedic pads can work, but they vary so much and usually aren't made to fit your particular horse's back structure, so you are not always fixing the problem by buying an expensive pad. Expensive isn't always better!  In western, pads are made to go up higher on the withers than an English saddle pad and if you have full thickness, you are adding padding over the shoulders again, thus impeding movement of that area to some degree.

A saddle (any saddle) should NOT sit on the horse's spine. I think most people are aware of this. The saddle should, however, sit ONLY atop the back on either side of the spine over the top of the ribcage, from BEHIND the scapula to the last rib; no more forward, no more backwards... even pressure along that space and nowhere else. Anything covering the shoulders or hips will block the flow of motion. All my saddle pads were made pretty typically; thick pads that covered the whole back and then some! They impeded the shoulder movement and even hit his hips. And they did nothing to fill the gap behind his scapula.

Specialty pads, though better, boast a certain amount of cushioning in the right places, but most I noticed can still interfere with the shoulder area as they are made to round forward, thus hitting part of the shoulder that rounds towards the back. So, I made my pad like a specialty pad but made to sit completely behind his shoulders and fill the gap, effectively lifting the saddle off his scapula completely, as well as keeping anything from hitting his hips. No part of the saddle touches anywhere; the pad touches the horse in the right places and at the right thickness, with the correct amount of soft vs. firm and the saddle sits on the pad. I also made sure it fits his withers just right on top to allow plenty of clearance from the gullet.

Pads can be made for English saddles as well. If you choose to make your own saddle pad, please make sure you know what you're doing or at least get someone else who is knowledgeable in this area to help you. You don't want to do more harm than good.

For horse pads, blankets and more, click here.